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lawn weed with seeds

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2. Roncoroni, J., “Dandelion,” University of California Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program, January 2018.

Sources:

1. UMass Extension Turf Program, “Biology and Management of Crabgrass,” University of Massachusetts Amherst, May 2011.

To help your lawn grass stay at its competitive peak, follow these “good practices” as well:

For best results, treat new weeds as they emerge from soil, when they’re young, actively growing and still less than 3 inches tall. This stops these lawn pests before they can establish, set seed and spread on their own. Used as directed, IMAGE All-In-One Weed Killer is guaranteed not to harm your lawn.*

When unwelcome weeds turn up in your lawn, don’t wait and watch them spread. Reclaim your turf with IMAGE brand and IMAGE All-In-One Weed Killer. You can kill lawn weeds — roots and all — and get back to a beautiful, healthy, weed-free lawn.

Dense, compacted soils are favored by lamb’s-quarters, which can grow up to 5 feet tall with enough sun and moisture. Toothed pale green leaves are egg shaped and have a fine white powdery coating, especially on new growth. The good news is this weed pulls up easily. The bad news, especially if you’re a vegetable gardener, is that it harbors viruses that attack certain crops like beets, lettuce, cucumber, and watermelon. If hand-pulling isn’t an option, mow the lawn consistently to prevent the weed from producing seed or apply a preemergent herbicide to prevent germination.

A perennial weed, field bindweed is one of the lawn weeds that is tough and difficult to eradicate. It has arrowhead-shaped leaves and flowers resembling small morning glories. This vining weed spreads by underground rhizomes. It wraps around plants and spreads across lawns so densely that it can smother and kill them. Repeated pulling before the plant flowers and releases seeds is the best control method. Some post-emergent herbicides work, but be sure to read the label to confirm the product’s effectiveness against bindweed.

Creeping Charlie

Also called ground ivy, creeping Charlie thrives in poorly drained shady sites with fertile soil. Rounded leaves with toothed margins form along square stems that weave across the lawn. Blue funnel-shaped flowers appear from April to June. Controlling Creeping Charlie is difficult, especially in shady sites where there’s little competition from grass. Increase sunlight to these areas by pruning trees and shrubs. To control the spread by hand, dig out all the stems and roots or the plant will grow back. For large areas, apply a post-emergent broadleaf herbicide containing dicamba from mid-spring to early summer and in middle to late fall.

Producing 150,000 seeds per plant, crabgrass is tough and determined to take over. This annual grass pops up frequently around heat-absorbing areas like driveways and sidewalks where soil warms faster, triggering the germination of crabgrass seeds. Though hand-pulling is helpful, it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to control the spread using just this method. Your best defense is a preemergent herbicide, or crabgrass preventer, applied in early spring before seeds have a chance to germinate.

Sharp barbs on the spear-shaped leaves of this tough perennial weed are a dead giveaway that it means business. Canada thistle is hard to remove, requiring repeated efforts to eradicate the entire deep taproot. When left behind, the smallest piece will sprout a new plant, and in some cases, two new plants. Chemical control is an option but cutting, while wearing gardening gloves, works by attrition. Snip off the plant at its base and continue to do this until the weed no longer grows. When you remove the leaves, the plant can’t produce the food it requires to grow and produce seed.