When the new patch of bermuda grass is looking cocky like it owns the farm, spray as you did before, same strength, same way. Then repeat the entire cycle of watering and waiting. (“Oh, Fun!”)
A pump up sprayer works best for most areas, not a small trigger squirter which is very tiring on the hands and your will-power. (Any size is functional and worth it, from a handy 1.5 quart, up to a 4 gallon backpack, if it fits your needs and makes it easier.)
Bermuda grass that has been growing for just one season may not recover from this initial spraying. (Please…please…please!)
So an area that became newly infested by seeds blowing in from neighbors’ lawns might be dead at this point.
4. It died! . Is it dead?
Just needs a little, doesn’t cost much. If you don’t bother, and the first spray does not seem to be effective to kill bermuda grass, this could be a factor to improve.
The potential for success varies quite a bit, depending on how well established and where the grass is, what else is growing around it, what plants you want to keep or introduce to that area, and how much time, effort and money you care to invest.
Here you will learn the whole truth.
You won’t find many garden advisors who admit that, but it’s true in most cases. If you have a yard area that has just recently gotten infested (this season) with bermuda seed that blew in, then yes, one or two spray jobs will get rid of these young, immature plants. That is a rare event.
A: No worries. Pre-emergent works by creating a thin layer of chemical just at the soil surface. This layer of chemical keeps any weed seeds below from germinating.
A possible way to control annual bluegrass in dormant bermudagrass is to wrap an old cotton towel around the end of a garden rake. Tie in place with string and dampen the towel with Roundup. Use the tool to “paint” weedkiller onto green weed foliage while avoiding the turfgrass. Discard the cloth when the job is finished by wrapping in plastic bags and putting it out for your municipal garbage collection.
Products known as pre-emergent weed killers are used to prevent weed seed from germinating. There are several different chemicals and products available. They differ in the kinds of weed seed they control and the length of time the product remains active.
In general, there are two types of weed leaves: broadleaf and grassy. The flourishing chickweed I have in a backyard flower bed is an example of a broadleaf weed. Others include henbit, dandelion, spurge and wild onion. Broadleaf weeds are easy to distinguish in a lawn. After all, they’re not a grass so they must be a weed! Broadleaf weeds react differently than grassy plants to herbicides. That’s an important point to remember as you make your scheme.
There are three primary methods of controlling weeds. Any one method, when used alone, will not usually control all of your weeds. To consistently control weeds you must use a combination of all three practices. The references above give specific information on lawn grasses and lawn weeds to help you devise a line of attack.
For a specific plan of how to control weeds in your lawn you need to note three things. You need to know what type of turfgrass you have. You need to know what type of weed you have and then you need to know what your control options are in your environment.
The thin emerald leaves of annual bluegrass show in patches in my winter lawn. Contrasting with the dormant grass, they are easy to spot. In summer, my neighbor notices the coarse grassy appearance of crabgrass, dallisgrass and bahiagrass in his fescue. Grassy weeds aren’t as noticeable as broadleaf weeds but if you walk your lawn regularly you’ll come to recognize what you want and what you don’t want there.