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bagging weed seeds

As an example, when mowing your lawn at 3.0 inches, you would want to mow the lawn when it gets to 4.5 inches (removing 1.5 inches of turf is equal to 1/3rd of the lawn height at 4.5 inches), which would occur about every 7 days for most of Minnesota. But when mowing your lawn at 4.0 inches, you would want to mow the lawn when it gets to a height of 6.0 inches, which would occur about every 10-12 days.

Another misconception with collecting or bagging clippings is that it will reduce or prevent thatch in the lawn. The thatch-mat layer that can build-up over time is made up of partially dead or decaying plant material containing lignin. Turf leaves (which are what we are cutting when we mow) contain little lignin and are easily broken down by soil microbes over the span of a few weeks and do not significantly contribute to thatch.

Furthermore, by removing lawn clippings from the lawn, you are removing up to 2.0 lbs N / 1000 ft2 per year that the lawn would use to be thicken and reduce weed pressure over time. After all, a dense, healthy turf is the best defense against weeds.

Misconception #2: Collecting or bagging lawn clippings will reduce the amount of thatch in my lawn.

While your mower may technically be capable of mowing your lawn from 6-8 inches down to 2 inches every two weeks, it is not recommended. Mowing more than 1/3rd of the leaf blade in a single mowing event can damage the turf plants, making them prone to other stresses such as drought, heat, insect, or diseases.

By maintaining your lawn at a taller height, you will have a lawn that requires less watering, and is more heat, insect, and disease tolerant throughout the growing season. Finally, by mowing according to the 1/3rd rule, you will also have to mow your lawn less frequently throughout the year.

The idea behind this misconception is that by removing the clippings and weed seedheads, I will be reducing the number of weeds in my lawn for next year. This may seem like an intuitive strategy for reducing weeds in a lawn over time, but the research doesn’t support this practice as being effective.

Some species, such as Kentucky bluegrass, spread by rhizomes and grow a little more aggressively, naturally creating a thatch-mat layer. Other species, such as tall fescue or the fine fescues, do not readily create a thatch-mat layer.

Cloning may seem difficult, but it is actually quite simple. And it ensures you get a new plant that is basically an exact copy of your successful one.

Keep the clone there for a few weeks, until it develops roots. You’ll want to change the water daily and, if possible (if you have a pH meter), keep the pH level at 5.5.

Cut the branch at a 45 degree angle to increase the surface area for possible roots to form. Cutting the branch vertically in a few spots at the bottom to open it up a bit increases the chances of rooting as well.

Successful Bagseed Grow: How To Maximize Your Chance Of Success

From there, you’ll have to care for them as normal, until you switch the lights to the flowering schedule. After a week or two of flowering, your plants will finally reveal their gender.

If you do decide to buy seeds from an online seed bank, I highly recommend spending a bit more an getting feminized seeds. Why spend all that money and risk getting male plants?

No, I’m not saying that.

If so, it is a good way not to waste anything in the bag. You don’t want to smoke the seeds or stems, so plant the seeds and learn what to do with weed stems. There are some great ways to not waste them.

We also suggest protecting your seedlings at this point because the slightest stress to their little bodies could kill them. Pests, pets, or simple carelessness could easily harm your seedlings so, until they are strong enough to withstand a little stress, enclose them in a plastic dome until they are at least a few inches tall. You can purchase plastic domes from your local nursery or grow shop or simply make some by cutting the top off a few 2-liter bottles and setting it on top of your babies. This will also help insulate your seedlings to minimize drastic temperature fluctuations.

Generally, you can simply place your seed in some healthy soil or even rock wool cubes to start the germination process, but not being able to see your seeds sprout could leave you waiting indefinitely for it to never happen in the first place. To ensure your bag seeds sprout as easily as possible, we suggest soaking them in tap water for 24 hours prior to germination to encourage the breakdown of the nutritious seed shell.

How to Sprout Seeds from a Bag of Cannabis

After soaking the seed, simply place it on a damp paper towel under a warm (not hot) light. After a few days, you should see the seed begin to sprout a taproot. This indicates that it’s time to transfer the seedling into your grow medium where it can find more nutrients to flourish. Do so by gently placing the sprouted seed about ¾ to 1-inch deep in soil then cover it with more soil. Other grow mediums you can consider include rock wool, expanded clay, or peat moss, though these are primarily used for hydroponic grow systems.

Growing our own medicine is a freedom that only a few get to enjoy. If you’re one of the lucky ones to live in a state where cannabis cultivation is legal, exercise your freedom by growing marijuana in your own home! Though you can certainly purchase seeds from a seed bank to increase your chances of success, many bag seeds will grow just as well (and save you a lot of money in the long-run).

H ow cool is it that we can finally start growing our own weed legally (in many places, anyway)? Even better is the potential of growing weed at little to no cost – certainly much cheaper than your local dispensary. Granted, if you’re trying to grow indoors, you’ll need the proper equipment to supplement the outdoor environment, but if you’re planning on growing marijuana outdoors, all you need is healthy soil, a safe and secure grow spot, and of course, some cannabis seeds to get you started.